Newbie Various Dimmer Connectivity Issues n

[SpocksBeard]

[SIZE=18px][FONT=times new roman][COLOR=#000000]Insteon hub 2242-22. Wired to home router. Plugged directly into wall.(no strip.)
HouseLinc program on PC finds Hub when searched.
2~ 2466dw switches powered in wall and turn outdoor lights on and dim.
Set button on both dimmers beep and blink. Both dimmers were reset after initial and multiple connectivity failures.
Iphone/Ipad programs and HouseLinc on PC cannot connect or see either device. It also did not see an X-10 device I had setup and added either. All attempts to 'add device' & connect say "search FAILED".. over and over. I also put the exact 6 number/letter codes of the devices in and .....NOTHING.[/COLOR]

[COLOR=#000000]Any ideas what could be going on with this new system? [/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]

[FONT=bookman old style, new york, times, serif][COLOR=#000000][SIZE=16px][SIZE=18px][FONT=times new roman]Very frustrating after working with X-10 for years and expecting a higher quality system to simply program lights to come on and off.[/FONT][/SIZE]

Sorry I dont know why all that HTML junk appears. you cant change font or size anywhere anyway !!! :D [/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

[stusviews]

The 2466 is a power line only device. What do you have in place to bridge the opposite legs of the split, [I]single-phase[/I] electric supply?

[SpocksBeard]

[QUOTE=stusviews;n84250]The 2466 is a power line only device. What do you have in place to bridge the opposite legs of the split, [I]single-phase[/I] electric supply?[/QUOTE]


I dont quite understand the question. "" bridge the opposite legs of the split,"" ...Stu.? I'm just a basic electrical nightmare.

Do you mean a range extender or a phase coupler. ?? ....... THATS X-10 nightmare stuff... I thought this was an upgrade ! LOL

[stusviews]

Electric is supplied to homes from a center tapped transformer. The two opposite legs supply 220/240VAC and the center taps is the neutral wire. The voltage between either opposite leg and the neutral is 110/120VAC. They're called opposite legs because alternating current (AC) alternates direction of the current flow, so the direction of the current in each leg is opposite that of the other leg.

In any case, if on HA device is on the opposite leg of theother HA device and the opposite legs are not bridged, then the Insteon signal needs to travel to the supply transformer (big gray roundish item on an electric pole) and back to the house. The signal usually doesn't make.

A device that bridges the opposite legs of the single-phase electric supply is called a phase-coupler. Do you have anything like that.

BTW, some X10 phase-couplers bridge the Insteon signal as well as X10. Others destroy Insteon siganls.

[SpocksBeard]

Cool electric 101 Stu, Thanks-
I had an x-10 phase coupler in my last house - Worked like garbage. So are your saying (like X-10) a phase coupler is needed for Insteon devices TOO?
Would a range extender help or work.? or must I couple the 2 legs?
like this one ~
[COLOR=#333333][FONT=Helvetica neue][B][SIZE=18px]Insteon 2406H SignaLinc INSTEON Hardwired Phase Coupler[/SIZE][/B][/FONT][/COLOR]

[stusviews]

If you have the opportunity to install a hard-wired coupler, then go for it. The hard-wired coupler is the most efficient device as it keep most of the Insteon (and X10) power line signal within the premises (X10 and Insteon power line signals are close enough in frequency that a coupler for either one is effective for the other).

However, hard-wired couplers do not have RF capability nor do they repeat the signal as other Insteon devices do (neither do X10 modules repeat the signal). Any [B]pair[/B] of dual-band Insteon devices, including Range Extenders, can be used to bridge the opposite legs and they are RF capable and repeat the Insteon signal, too. Dual-band devices are easier to install than a hard-wired coupler,

The best of both worlds is to install both, a hard-wired coupler and at least one additional dual-band device. The Hub itself is a dual-band device ;)