2477D keeps cycling on and off, but will not control with paddle

[cksedg]

I have two 2477D switches that I am installing on two separate lights. They both keep cycling the lights they control on and off as long as power is connected, without touching the switch. The paddle does nothing! Could it be that I don't have a good neutral? These two switches are in a 3 gang box with another switch, and that is where I got the neutral. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I don't have any more ideas!

[BLH]

The original switches you replaced. where they part of a three way setup?

Do they cycle if you leave the Load Connection disconnected

I would verify your connections for the Line, Neutral and Loads.

Was the Neutral you chose to use. A bundle in the back of the electrical box?

If it was connected to one of the original switches. Then it most likely is part of a three way switch setup and not Neutral. In that case it should have had a black marker on it to indicate it was not a Neutral connection.

[stusviews]

How did you determine which wire was line, which was load and which was neutral. Wire color alone is not adequate. As BLH indicated, a white wire in a 3-way configuration is NOT a neutral wire.

[cksedg]

Both switches are single switches--not part of a 3 way circuit. Both switches are connected to a switch leg without a neutral (power goes to the light fixture first); however, there is a neutral in the box, which I tied into. I have another 2477S switch in the same box, which works fine tied to that same neutral. It is part of a 4 way circuit and all the entire circuit works great. Bad switches? I will try to use them in another box where I know there is a good neutral and see if they work.

[stusviews]

The code does not allow using a neutral from a different circuit. Doing so can cause the neutral wire to carry the full load of both circuits. Because only the line wire is protected, an overload on the neutral can cause that wire to overheat, possibly causing a fire.

How did you determine which of the two wires between the fixture and the switch was line and which was load?

[cksedg]

Determined with a multi-meter, black wire on tester to load, white to ground. One wire was always on, the other always off when testing.

[BLH]

Did you remove the bulbs in the fixtures you are using?
If not it is possible to get a false reading back through the bulb. In some situations.

[stusviews]

That's an interesting multimeter. All meters I've encountered use red for line/positive and black for neutral/negative. Which model are you using?

Also, of the two electric wires, black and white, which one tested as line?

[cksedg]

You're right--the meter has black and red wires. I knew that; don't know why I typed black and white. Sorry.

I installed the switches in a different single box today--one that I KNOW has a good neutral. The one that was cycling on and off seemed to work fine; but the one that was always on is still always on; however, the LEDs on the side go up and down like they should. But the load (light) is always on.

For my other circuit, the only thing I can think to do is buy the two wire switches that don't require a neutral. I know they will only work RF, but that's mainly what I want them for anyway. What experience do you have with those switches? Are they reliable?

[cksedg]

I have another question: Since my house is older, the neutrals and grounds are all tied together on the same terminal strip in the breaker box. Is it permissible to use the ground as the neutral in this case?

[stusviews]

It is standard practice for the neutral and ground to be bonded in a load center/breaker panel. It is never OK, it is unsafe and it's not in accordance with the NEC to use ground as a neutral.

The correct procedure is to reconnect the wires at the fixture to provide line and neutral at the switch and install a Micro Module in the ceiling box. An alternative is to use the 2-wire switch and use an incandescent load only.

[cksedg]

I think I will use the two wire switch. The load will be incandescent anyway, so that's not a problem. How about dimmable LED lights?
Thank you so much for all of your help.

[stusviews]

The 2-wire switch depends on a small amount of current flowing through the filamentof an incandescent bulb for proper operation. You may find a dimmable LED that appears to function, but the life of the somewhat costly bulb is likely to be shortened from 10-15 years to a year or two.