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Pool Filter Control 2477SA1 or 2477SA2

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    Pool Filter Control 2477SA1 or 2477SA2

    I am wanting to get rid of the old timer on my pool pump, but am not sure if I should use a normally closed or normally open relay? Thanks for any feedback.

    Thanks

    #2
    The depends on what you consider "normal." For example, a hot water heater is normally on, but may be turned off at night or when on vacation. A pool pump is normally off, but it's up to you.
    Message from Forum Admin: stusviews passed away in April 2018. Stu was a huge fan of Insteon and a huge presence on both the Smarthome and Insteon forums, helping thousands of us along the way (he had nearly 20,000 posts to his name). We thank him for his contributions, dedication, and passion for making the Smart Home a reality. He will truly be missed.
    Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.

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      #3
      Informational Only: The Load Controller can be rewired to be N.O vs N.C. if so desired as I did this on several units. It should be noted the N.C. load controller does not seem to sell as much as the N.O. hardware.

      What does that mean to the end user?

      It means the hardware may be using older internal hardware / firmware vs the other.
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        #4
        Thanks very much, I would have assumed it was normally on, but this is why I come to the experts.

        Appreciated very much.

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          #5
          Normally on means that you want the pump to run continuously 24/7 except for brief times when you want to turn it off, for example, for maintenance or vacation.

          Glad you got clarification
          Message from Forum Admin: stusviews passed away in April 2018. Stu was a huge fan of Insteon and a huge presence on both the Smarthome and Insteon forums, helping thousands of us along the way (he had nearly 20,000 posts to his name). We thank him for his contributions, dedication, and passion for making the Smart Home a reality. He will truly be missed.
          Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.

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            #6
            I just wanted to add some clarification to my post up above and the ideology of such. My first project was more of a proof of concept and wanted to integrate this device with my electric hot water tank. My fear was given the large amounts past failures of this specific device I wanted to ensure no matter what the hot water tank would always see 240 VAC as if it was wired in a normal home.

            Keeping in mind the HWT only calls for heating when the temperature drops below the preset TSTAT setting(s).

            Meaning in a normal home there is always 240 VAC present - Power is only drawn when the TSTAT calls for it to do so. With customer feedback of the N.O. Load Controller failing in this configuration there would be no way to apply power when needed. Using a N.C. configuration ensures no matter what even during a failure the contacts are in the normal resting state of closed.

            Thus, 240 VAC is always present unless I wish it to be off . . .

            Fortunately, I did not go this route and use a Smart Hot Water Tank monitor controller from Aquanta. It offers me all the benefits of remote control, tracks energy and consumption usage data, detects water leaks, and measures the internal water temperature and offers remote on / off scheduling.

            Lastly, made in America!
            Want to make a real difference? Please cast your vote to make the PLM Pro a reality: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-...t/8221-plm-pro

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              #7
              Originally posted by EVIL Teken View Post
              Informational Only: The Load Controller can be rewired to be N.O vs N.C. if so desired as I did this on several units.
              EVIL Teken - Can you give any details as to how you did this? Does it involve soldering, etc? They no longer sell the N.O., and the N.C. is only $50 right now so I'd like to get one to control my pool pump. But... ideally I want it to operate as N.O.! Thanks in advance.

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                #8
                Not sure if things have changed revision wise.
                In the FCC Database Photos of the module. The output connections are what looks like 1/4" quick disconnects to the two relays used for the output.. With the Common or either the NC or NO connected to the other relay output. You use to be able to just unplug from the NC or NO and move it to the other output.
                Now this does not change the firmware so it will still report as the NC module and the Output LEDs would probably be wrong. You also kill the warranty by opening it up and there is a chance a hardware change no longer uses 1/4" quick disconnects.

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                  #9
                  Thanks. I was wondering how the firmware would handle this. In the end it may not be worth attempting. Any ideas about the real impact of running something that's normally off (like a pool pump) with a NC relay? Is the impact just that the "fail state" of the controller will keep the pump on? I think I can live with that... but not sure what else I may be missing.

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                    #10
                    The only difference between the two load controller options are the dev cat and sub cat info in the firmware and where the relay load is plugged into inside the unit. The function of the load controller changes from No to NC based on where you plug the load wire connector into the relay/s.

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