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How to use 2466 on/off switch in 4-way circuit

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    How to use 2466 on/off switch in 4-way circuit

    I have a 4-way switch circuit controlling a floodlight. They are all manual switches. I want to use the 2466 in place of 1 of these to control the floods. I've removed one of the switches which is a 3-way switch (I haven't checked the 2 other switches to see which one is the 4-way switch, but it has to be one of them), with 3 wires going into it, black, white and red. Black appears to be hot when you put a DMM across the black and red wires, or if you flip one of the other switches in the circuit then its hot when across the black and white wires. I presume the white and red wires are travelers. I removed the old 3 way switch described above, and wired in the 2466 which is downstairs in my house. I connected the switch's white/neutral wire to another neutral wire in the gang switch box. Then I connected the black/line from the 2466 to the black wire, and connected the red from the 2466 to the red traveller, and then capped off the white traveller. I can control the floodlight outside my bedroom window with the 2466. However, I can't control the other 2 manual switches unless the 2466 is "on". When the 2466 is in the "on" position, I can then control each of the manual switches from their wall location. The problem is that I should be able to control the manual switches regardless of whether or not the 2466 is "on". At least that's what I want to do. For example, if the 2466 is off downstairs and I'm upstairs in the bedroom where one of the manual switches to the floodlight is located, I want to be able to turn on/off the floodlight from the bedroom and not have to go downstairs to where the 2466 is located, turn it on, and then control the floodlight. What do I need to change? Should I connect the white traveller to the 2466 vs. leaving it capped? Thanks. Stephen

    #2
    All the switches in a multi way setup have to be changed to an Insteon one. Wiring may have to be changed to get Line and Neutral to all the Insteon switches. Cap off the unused load on three of the switches. Wire the Light to the Load on the forth switch. Cross link all four of them so they control each other.

    The 2466D dimmer version of the full manual will explain it and the images section on the 2466SW also shows something.
    https://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2466D.pdf
    Last edited by BLH; 07-14-2018, 01:10 PM. Reason: Add information

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      #3
      Thanks for your input. Why is it that all the switches have to be changed to Insteon? Do they all have to be the 2466 models? One reason I ask is that model has the "Lighted Off" feature, and in the bedroom it would be way to bright to sleep at night. Thoughts? Stephen

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        #4
        You would not be able to control the lights properly with any standard switches in the setup. The travelers are used to switch the line or load {depends on wiring} between the travelers. When you change one switch the other traveler is connected or disconnected. So you can locally use any one of them to turn it On or Off by mechanically switching between travelers. You can't do that with Insteon. If you switched the Load between travelers. You would loose control of the light completely if one is set to Off. Also the LED on the 2466S would not be showing On or Off if you tried a mechanical switch. If you have any places where the old switch is hidden or rarely used. You could wire around it. Not having to add an Insteon switch.

        The 2466S or 2466D are the older design power line only Insteon switches. The 2477D and 2477S lines are Dual Band. Have a On and Off Paddle. With a bar graph level indicator. I have the older 2476S power line ones in my home. The Off and On LEDs are fairly bright. I changed my LEDs light pipes to the frosted ones. I believe the 2477 line can have an option set for LED brightness. I believe someone painted the Off light pipe in theirs to even reduce the light out further. The 2466 does not have changeable Light Pipes {they come in colors} and Paddles the 2476 and 2477 line can use. I used a Light Dims product over the back of the Off light pipe. It reduces the LED 80% if my memory is not too faded.

        I just looked. The LED Color Change Light Pipes are marked Not Available. So they maybe discontinued. Like some of the color change paddle kits.
        Last edited by BLH; 07-15-2018, 11:27 AM. Reason: Add Information

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          #5
          BLH-Thanks for your input. I do have the 2466S installed, along with the existed 2 manual switches. If the Insteon is in its OFF position, then I can't control either of the other switches, but if the Insteon is ON then I can control the light at each of the 2 manual switches. They function properly as long as the Insteon is ON. If I turn Insteon OFF, then neither of the switches respond. My guess is that the Insteon is controling the line to the other 2 switches. I only have 1 of the 2 travellers that were previously connected to the switch that I replaced with the Insteon, connected to the Insteon, and I capped off the other traveller. So it works fine, as long as I have turned On the Insteon. I guess I could just leave the Insteon in the On position all the time and control the on/off of the fixture with the manual switches. I guess its no big deal leaving the Insteon in the Off position and just switching it On when needed. Probably no issue for us living in the house now, but would probably baffle a new owner--10-15 years from now if I'm still around! Stephen

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            #6
            Your explanation sound correct. The Insteon switch is On it is controlling the feed to the fixture. Through the travelers. Either one would turn it On or Off. When the Insteon is Off. You can't use the other switches to turn On and Off. As long as you are satisfied in how it works. The project is complete.

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