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The Crazy Train Has Left The Depot

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  • The Crazy Train Has Left The Depot

    After researching this for about a month now I pulled the trigger on an X-10 Pro XDPI3 dimmer (for 3 10-watt (100-watt equivalent)
    MaxLite LED G25 dimmable "bathroom bulbs", which is what my fixture holds) but it was pretty much a bust. It would not work at all with the LED bulbs (they stayed on constantly at a low level) but the 60-watt incandescent bulbs worked pretty much "as advertised" except that the RFI noise was so bad that I could no longer listen to my "bathroom radio" (a fairly expensive ghetto blaster type unit, not some cheap-o AM thing) so that was a non-starter. So then I broke down and ordered (for 50 bucks) an Insteon 2477D (on the recommendation of a bunch of posters on other forums who said that this was about the only thing that would work for my particular setup). Well it finally arrived and I hooked it up exactly as the documentation indicated (not like it would work any other way - and yes, I have a "neutral" wire available) but it quickly went downhill from there. I started out with the incandescent bulbs (since they were a known-good quantity) but when I applied the power the switch would ramp-up to total brightness and then immediately go back down again. I could turn it off with the switch but every time I turned it back on it would only cycle up & down over and over again. I double-checked the wiring and even re-installed the X-10 switch (which worked perfectly except for the unbearable RFI noise) and then re-installed the Insteon switch. I am using this switch as a "stand-alone" device and I have no other Insteon equipment in the house, let-alone the Insteon app. I don't own a Smartphone so that's out of the question to begin with. I just want to use it as a stand-alone switch which will dim my bathroom lights (hopefully the LEDs but it's got to work for the incandescent bulbs first and foremost). Any guesses as to why this thing won't function correctly with the incandescent bulbs, not to mention the LEDs (which I admit I have not tried out yet). I feel as if I have to make it work with the incandescent bulbs first before I move on to the LED ones...
    Last edited by Travasaurus; 07-05-2018, 11:33 PM.

  • #2
    If you didn't download the full manual here is the link also found on the sales page.

    Try a Factory Reset on it.

    If you power it up with no load on it. Does the LED bar graph on the side ramp up to full and then back down to off in the cycle or stay at full?

    You could remove it from the installation and then power it with a temporary power cord plugged into a wall socket. The load wire can be taped if you don't have a convenient way to connect a load. Then see if it acts strange there.
    If it acts strange on a temporary power cord and a factory reset didn't change things. Let us know.
    If memory serves me. You had to have the neutral added to the wall box?

    RFI interference is not that uncommon with many dimmers. Is it on the AM or FM band. AM is usually the most effected. I have seen some brand LED bulbs generate noise also.
    Last edited by BLH; 07-06-2018, 07:00 AM.


    • #3
      Stu gave us a great tip on testing modules. That may help.
      Get an Extension Cord.
      Cut it in half and strip it's outer covering back a few inches on both sides.
      Strip the wires insulation maybe 1/2" to 3/4".
      Using electrical twist on caps.
      Connect the Black from the plug end to the modules Black wire.
      Connect the Black from the outlet end to the modules Red wire.
      Connect the Whites from both ends along with the White from the module to together.
      The Green wires from both ends can be connected together. You could add the module ground if you care to. Ground is not needed for them to work. It is for safety.
      Put a load lamp in the outlet end and test the module operation.
      Last edited by BLH; 07-06-2018, 01:07 PM.