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2242-222 shutting down

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  • 2242-222 shutting down

    To date this year, I have had 4 customers with the 2242-222 that have just stopped working. No LED, apparently no power. Do these have a self destruct date? It is odd to have so many just stop functioning within a short time period.

  • #2
    Most likely a power supply issue. Like the two year and a few months failures on the 2413 PLM, reversion 2 2243 Access Points.
    Electrolytic capacitors seem to fail. Especially in the switching power supply area.
    In the UDI forums. Many of us have rebuilt our 2413 and 2443 modules. With capacitors made for switching supplies.

    If you search here and other forums. You will see both 2242-222 and 2245-222 HUBS seem to fail after a few years.

    I have see a post on the Smarthome Forums. Where a user was offered a module list for the old HUB so changing it was easier. I also saw a service was avilable sometimes. To return it for a rebuild. Though I am not sure the time span with no HUB was experienced.

    I have also seen a report the latest 2245-222 has a few updated parts in it.


    • #3
      my 2245-222 died 3 days ago, no power or any lights on around 2 1/2 years old
      Replaced with a new hub.
      Opened before installing and noticed a couple caps went from 50v to 100v on the newer one.
      Was sent a ID list from support with ID numbers to re install all devices that way instead of having to go through the " set" button procedure on each device.
      Half worked that way and the rest I had to actually go to ea device and reinstall like the very initial set up.
      I have 25 devices so it took a while.
      Found a starter kit at Menards, hub-and 2 dimmer switches for $85
      Hub alone was $79
      Also the Lexan display shelf all items are displayed on is up for sale there for $100. at the end of Jan.All have dummy devices on it.Dont know why anyone would want it.
      Looks like they are gone from Menards as a retailer shortly. They have been slowly clearance pricing certain devices for the past 3 months.
      Last edited by rajung; 11-29-2017, 05:44 PM.


      • #4
        I also had the same Hub 2245-222 (rev 1.13 4814) die three times. The first two times I replaced C11 and C13 (100 uF 35V?) based on some earlier posts. The hub would work overnight and then die again sometime the next morning. 8-(
        With some of the recent posts (e.g. "Hub 2245-22 died after 2 years.") I considered to replace C4 since mine also had burn-like marks around it. I could not find the exact voltage (450v) so I purchased 1250v - slightly larger physical size but there was room. Replacing C4 did not fix the hub. I then replaced C7 (47uF 50v) and the Hub has been working for over 24 hours. 8-)
        perhaps I should have replaced C7 first?
        Diagram included.

        BTW the SmartHome product page Posted on 6/1/2017:
        Smarthome reply: We have identified an issue that effects Insteon Hub (2245-222 - revisions prior to 2.3) where in rare circumstances a component may fail if exposed to prolonged and excessive heat. In these failures the Hub will cease to function. To prevent such an issue from occurring we introduced a hardware change that began shipping in December 2016 (Rev 2.3).

        It would have been nice if they identified the specific component...
        It would be great if some with a rev 2.3 hardware cracked it open and identified the values for the above components...
        Attached Files
        Last edited by kiwin; 12-17-2017, 08:59 PM.


        • #5
          I had the same issue, but only had a 35v 47uF for C7 replacement in my workshop. But it worked! My guess is the cap mfg was the issue and not a design spec for 50v being too low (they usually double that spec anyway). Hope it will last - I don't want to re-install 40+ devices on a new hub.
          Last edited by jgmoxness; 12-19-2017, 09:19 PM.


          • #6
            It has been 10 days and my self repaired Hub 2245-222 (rev 1.13 4814) (replaced C7 with 47uF 50v) is still working. 8-)
            I also bought a used Rev 2.3 4916 Hub. This revised 2.3 design replaced C7 with a Surface Mount Device (claimed to be 10uF in post and added C75 100uF 50v (picture attached).
            Replacing C7 with 100uF 50v should also work.
            SmartHome rearranged the PC board in that area a bit, but the rest of the components seem unchanged.
            (C11 and C13 also appeared to be unchanged in Rev 2.3)


            Hoping this detailed information will help the next person trying to repair their Hub...
            Last edited by kiwin; 12-29-2017, 02:01 AM.


            • #7
              I had the same problem listed here. Replaced C7 with 47 uf 50 VDC and it's working. The soldering on the device looked pretty poor and looks like this was a reworked 2245-222 that I bought in May 2015. I also had carbonization around C4 but could be from the original rework. Thanks to everyone on this thread. It's been ages since I field repaired any electronics.


              • #8
                I just ran into the same issue... Insteon kindly sent me a new unit (mine was about 3 years old) but I thought I would try to still fix my old one. I have not installed the components yet, but did find a place to order them.

                C7- part number at 598-476CKR050M
                C4- part number at 594-2222-375-10222
                The voltage of the C4 part is 630 VDC, but from what I understand about capacitors, that is ok since this is a capacity value.

                Total with shipping was about $8

                Hope this helps!


                • #9

                  the voltage rating is what the capacitor can handle. It has nothing to do with the rating of the capacitor. The uf rating is what matters. Higher voltage rated capacitors are OK as long as they fit.
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                  • #10
                    Another satisfied user after a C7 replacement. The diagrams were great. Thanks.


                    • #11
                      The C7 issue is a symptom, not the problem. On mine C4 and D6 were discolored. C4 and D6 along with a few resistors form a snubber for the primary winding of the power transformer. My guess is that there are power surges that this snubber is not capable of completely filtering, and a voltage pulse gets transferred from the primary to the secondary and over voltages C7 and C11. Perhaps C11 is better derated and not effected. On mine replacing C7 got it up and running. I will also replace C4 and D6 so the next power surge will be at least be partially filtered.
                      A note about putting in a higher voltage rated cap.
                      The capacitors effective capacitance is a function of the DC bias on the cap relative to the voltage rating. So if you use a 50V 10uF cap at 50V you will get all 10uF. If you replace the 50V 10uF cap with a 100V 10uF cap the effective capacitance in the circuit will be way less then 10uF. So for mine when I replaced the C7, i put in a 65V 100uF cap.


                      • #12
                        I have not seen this mentioned in awhile and thought modern capacitors where no effected like the early ones.
                        The working voltage should not change the capacitors capacity. If you replaced a 10uf/ 35 volt with a 10uF/50 volt. The capacity stays the same. You get a higher safety margin. I have not seen the applied voltage effecting the capacity issues with most modern capacitors. Like in the early days of my electronic career.

                        Another thing that can effect its life is its maximum temperature rating. For every ten degrees C below is maximum temperature you exponentially extend its life. A 105C one will be better than a 85C one. For the same ambient temperature around it.

                        Since the HUB uses a switching power supply. You should also use a capacitor rated for switching power supply use. A general purpose one may not last very long. Due to the 200KHz switching supplies frequency.
                        Last edited by BLH; Yesterday, 04:24 AM.