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HUB died...purchased new one, but how to configure?

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  • #16
    @Tfitzatri8, lilyoyo1
    I am aware of the migration process, which does not apply to a dead hub. The only way is like I did, ask support for help or create a new account. When this one fails again, I will attempt to repair myself. I am handy with soldering. But, when I call them, they offer a new hub which is fine with me.

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    • #17
      My mistake, I should have pointed out the Basic Troubleshooting at the bottom of the page. You are right, it really isn’t obvious unless you read all the way through.

      It says if you no longer have the Hub, or you can no longer log into your Hub, then you will need to reach support so they can delete the associated account. For larger installations, they can also generate a list of device addresses to make it easier to add equipment to new hardware.

      Knowing that wouldn’t have made the time between request and response go by any quicker, but it might have reassured you that you were at least on the right path.

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      • #18
        My hub died too and is under warranty until the 14th of this month. But that will only save me the cost of a new one, not the hassle of the re-programming. I'm so sick of Insteon's basic design failure. To require a working device to remove references to it from the network is so short sighted. I replace units when they break... when they can no longer function... they CAN'T remove themselves. Ugh... what a mess.

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        • #19
          Contact tech support before you do anything crazy. Sounds like they have a repair program available now, so if they can repair it you can avoid having to reset and relink everything.
          Last edited by TFitzpatri8; 12-07-2017, 09:13 PM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by TFitzpatri8 View Post
            Contact tech support before you do anything crazy. Sounds like they have a repair program available now, so if they can repair it you can avoid having to reset and relink everything.
            Y'all are freaking JEAN-yus-es!!! I went down to a little electronics store (eStuff) we have in our little town of Sebastopol (population 25,000) and asked for a 47 micro-farad 50 volt end connector electrolytic and they HAD it. They have drawers of components. I soldered it in and it's ALIVE and talking on my old account. Woohoo! Thank you so much everybody. BTW, the old cap looked obviously fried. "It's nice when diagnosis is easy.", the guy behind the counter observed when I showed him the board.

            I've got about 35 devices on my network and that includes controlling the power for many far-flung components in my home theater... amps, electronic crossovers. I've also got lighting effects programmed to be gentle on the eyes when a movie is over.

            Thank you, thank you, thank you... I'm thrilled.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by erkq View Post

              Y'all are freaking JEAN-yus-es!!! I went down to a little electronics store (eStuff) we have in our little town of Sebastopol (population 25,000) and asked for a 47 micro-farad 50 volt end connector electrolytic and they HAD it. They have drawers of components. I soldered it in and it's ALIVE and talking on my old account. Woohoo! Thank you so much everybody. BTW, the old cap looked obviously fried. "It's nice when diagnosis is easy.", the guy behind the counter observed when I showed him the board.

              I've got about 35 devices on my network and that includes controlling the power for many far-flung components in my home theater... amps, electronic crossovers. I've also got lighting effects programmed to be gentle on the eyes when a movie is over.

              Thank you, thank you, thank you... I'm thrilled.
              erkq .... What capacitor turned out to be the issue for you? Was it C7 ?

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              • #22
                Just remember one thing.
                The HUB uses a switching power supply.
                A capacitor rated to be used in a switching power supply should be used. A general purpose one will not work well and may fail in a short time.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by gtwest088 View Post

                  erkq .... What capacitor turned out to be the issue for you? Was it C7 ?
                  Yes, C7. They want the response to be 10 characters, so...

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                  • #24
                    Yes, replacing C7 with 47uF 50v is what fixed my Hub 2245-222 (rev 1.13 4814) (still working after 10 days)
                    The newer hardware Rev 2.3 4916 Hub replaced C7 with a Surface Mount Device (claimed to be 10uF in post http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-...ing-on?p=95036) AND added C75 100uF 50v (picture attached).
                    Replacing C7 in an older hardware revision Hub with 100uF 50v should also work.
                    Some additional details here http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-...g-down?p=98801

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                    • #25
                      Replacing C7 worked for a while. They are selling units with a known problem they should make it good.

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                      • #26
                        While I'm glad there are ways to repair the hub and that the newer ones are better designed but, for me, that's not the big deal. The big deal is that you have no backup of your configuration. Hardware dies - that's life. I have to give kudos to Insteon support who sent me a new hub even though mine was out of warranty. That was awesome of them. HOWEVER - not being able to restore my configuration is a huge issue to me! Sure I only have 10 devices now but I have been looking at getting at least 3 more switches but now I'm not sure. It took me a couple hours of research and about an hour of data input to resurrect my current system. It will only get worse if I grow it. Insteon NEEDS to find a way to backup/restore a hub. If they do that I'll stick with them for the long haul. If not - I'm already researching Homeseer, Vera, Wink, and Echo Plus. I don't want to move away but I need to be able to protect my setup.
                        Proud tinkerer with Insteon Hub, Switches, Dimmers, Fanlincs, etc. Plus some Amazon Echos to make things more fun!
                        I blog about smart home stuff too!

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                        • #27
                          This thread was perfect! My lights have been flickering for the past few weeks on Insteon traffic, and then yesterday the hub died. I was dreading the migration process, but found this, replaced C7 and now the hub is back up and running! Now to cancel my Smarthome hub order...

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                          • #28
                            Thanks for all the tips, I replaced C7 and all is working again.

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                            • #29
                              I just wanted to put my two cents in on this thread. Seriously, I have repaired 4 or 5 hub 2s (and a PLM or two). Failure is always the same two caps in the power supply switcher circuit. The newer units have had a mod done to make failure less likely going forward. I worked with Jesus on the updated values (before he left) to get them correct. The repair is simple if you have basic desoldering and soldering tools and skills. Don’t drive yourself crazy looking for low ESR caps or anything special..... the ones that “work” are available on Amazon. PM me if you need help or just want me to do it for you. Takes less than 15 minutes start to finish and saves a huge amount of time because you maintain the same hub address.
                              Charlie O. iPhone 6S + / iPad Pro 169 Insteon devices and growing

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                              • #30
                                Mine fixed -C7 cap replaced. Now I have 99 more -about 200 years worth!

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