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    #16
    I replaced the cap but now I just get a regular red blink (previously a few blinks at power connection and then nothing). I suspect the surface mount component below the cap (between the cap pads on the solder side) is fried -- the whole area is darkened. I can't identify the component but in any case it's way too small for me to replace with the tools I have, so I think I'm at an impasse. If anyone knows what that is, please post and I will look around for a friend with SMD capability.

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      #17
      Hi mwolczko. Can I take you up on your offer of the C4 capacitor? I'm having a tough time finding the right one.

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        #18
        I had the same problem. My 2245-222 Hub stopped working and would no longer power on. Replaced C7 and all is working again.

        For those who are not able to locate the C7 capacitor, here are a couple reference pictures.
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 2 photos.

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          #19
          I also had the same Hub 2245-222 (rev 1.13 4814) die three times. The first two times I replaced C11 and C13 (100 uF 35V?) based on some earlier posts. The hub would work overnight and then die again sometime the next morning. 8-(
          With some of the recent posts (e.g. "Hub 2245-22 died after 2 years.") I considered to replace C4 since mine also had burn-like marks around it. I could not find the exact voltage (450v) so I purchased 1250v - slightly larger physical size but there was room. Replacing C4 did not fix the hub. I then replaced C7 (47uF 50v) and the Hub has been working for over 24 hours. 8-)
          perhaps I should have replaced C7 first?
          Diagram attached.

          BTW the SmartHome product page Posted on 6/1/2017:
          Smarthome reply: We have identified an issue that effects Insteon Hub (2245-222 - revisions prior to 2.3) where in rare circumstances a component may fail if exposed to prolonged and excessive heat. In these failures the Hub will cease to function. To prevent such an issue from occurring we introduced a hardware change that began shipping in December 2016 (Rev 2.3).

          It would have been nice if they identified the specific component...
          It would be great if some with a rev 2.3 hardware cracked it open and identified the values for the above components...
          filedata/fetch?id=98810&d=1513569200&type=thumb
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          This gallery has 1 photos.
          Last edited by kiwin; 12-17-2017, 09:03 PM.

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            #20
            It has been 10 days and my self repaired Hub 2245-222 (rev 1.13 4814) (replaced C7 with 47uF 50v) is still working. 8-)
            I also bought a used Rev 2.3 4916 Hub. This revised 2.3 design replaced C7 with a Surface Mount Device (claimed to be 10uF in post http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-...ing-on?p=95036) and added C75 100uF 50v (picture attached).
            Replacing C7 with 100uF 50v should also work.
            SmartHome rearranged the PC board in that area a bit, but the rest of the components seem unchanged.
            (C11 and C13 also appeared to be unchanged in Rev 2.3) Instean-hub-dies-171228a.gif

            Hoping this detailed information will help the next person trying to repair their Hub...
            Last edited by kiwin; 12-29-2017, 02:02 AM.

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              #21
              Thanks all, another hub fixed by replacing C7.

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                #22
                Thanks everyone for this fix. I salvaged a capacitor from an old computer power supply.
                Mine died last week. I picked up a kit locally with 2 plug in modules for $130 because I need the hub to control all my lights and monitor my cameras, Now I can return it!
                Last edited by danfilipi; 01-15-2018, 06:32 AM.

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                  #23
                  Thank you all for your help!!! Like 'ComputingBee', we've had our Hub for about 2 years and 2 weeks when it died.. no power light, nothing. Since the most common issue seemed to be C7, I ordered a couple from DigiKey and replaced it this evening... Hurrah! We're back in business!

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                    #24
                    My 2245-222 was dead just under the 3 year mark on Sunday morning, it worked at 2am to turn off some lights etc. The C7 was the issue, replaced it and the unit fired right up. The old Cap measured about 1.2uF on a multimeter so they definitely have an issue with the parts degrading. For those who aren't savvy enough to change the part, they (Insteon) really need to make this a no charge repair after the 2 year warranty expires, IMO!

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                      #25
                      Just adding to this, One of my hubs died around six months ago (same problem mentioned in other posts). I replaced with a refurb from insteon. In that course of time a coworker that i had recommended insteon to lost a hub, and over the weekend a second coworker reached out to me with this thread. I changed out his 47UF 50V and it worked. I have since changed out the other two hubs (mine, and the coworker I talked into insteon) and now all three are working again.

                      could this excessive heat be from firmware pushes from insteon? anybody noticing any correlation between pushes and outages?

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                        #26
                        C7 fixed mine. Couldn’t believe it. Mine didn’t necessarily look like it was in bad shape. Getting it out was challenging for me, but really didn’t have the proper tools. Just a cheapo soldering iron that I thought I needed 10 years ago. Got the capacitor off amazon. Now my hub can fail 99 more times.

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                          #27
                          Mine fixed -C7 cap replaced. Now I have 99 more -about 200 years worth!

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                            #28
                            And another C7 hub fix. I only have four extras here though.

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                              #29
                              Yet another C7 fix. No signs of leakage or visible problems of the capacitor. Much gratitude to whoever figured this out!

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                                #30
                                If you had a capacitor tester. It probably was dried out and its capacity was very low, or its ESR went very high.
                                Some times leakage, can swelling or the rubber seal on the bottom popping out doesn't happen.

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