Insteon Hub Schematics / Part ID?

[Corto]

Hi, my hub died today. Took it apart, and there is an SMT diode in the power circuit that looks burnt. SMA size package or so. D6 I think. Marking is "UFM" and "MIC"

MIC seems to be a diode company in India. I cannot specifically find the UFM marking note so I have no ideal what current and voltage rating this diode is.

If anyone has access to schematics or a BOM of the Hub and could pass this along, it is appreciated. Thanks.

[rgunther]

If this is the Hub 2 (square, cloud-accessible hub) and you're within warranty, Insteon will repair it for you. The Hub 2 warranty period is 2 years from purchase. http://www.insteon.com/legal#warranty

[Corto]

Thanks. A bit over 3 years old.

[rajung]

My hub died a couple months ago, almost same age as yours, for what its worth, it could be more than just one diode, a few items could have fried at the same time.
Its a little work, but nothing hard to replace hub and reprogram , and most likely will be less expensive in the long haul.
You can get a factory refurb and 20%off on the web site for just over 30 bucks.
I bought 2 since these seem to have a limited life.
These were 100% like new appearance and condition except for retail packaging. For that I just cant see trying to chase around repair.Stay away from the evil bay ones, not cheaper and especially the ones that have " NO" id label code

[BLH]

Is it the older 2442-222 or the presently sold 2445-222 HUB?
I have seen reports of the filter capacitors failing. As it has a small switching power supply in it and they are in a circuit with a 200KHz output into the filter network.
I would also think. It maybe more than one component effected.

[Corto]

2245-222. I found a thread talking about C7, replaced it and the hub is working again! Good thing, because I was not looking forward to the migrating aspect as I was also just finding out about. There should be a config file or something that can be loaded onto a new hub. I don't have a ton of devices, but having to delete devices and the account (and with the unit dead, I would have had to contact support to delete) is quite a hassle.

[BLH]

Glad you got it working again.

[rajung]

Great job getting it working.
We don't have a radio shack anymore like most places, where did you find that Cap and part#?, be nice to have a couple .I tried my local family run elect. shop and they had nothing when mine failed.

[BLH]

If Radio Shack was still around.
I would not use one of their capacitors, if possible. As they where general purpose capacitors.

For better reliability. I would be using a 105C or better temperature rating and made for use in a switching type power supply.

[Wolf614]

Thanks to whom ever posted the C7 cap fix. My neighbor found a 47 ufd up in the garage stored away. It was not the perfect fit but we made it work and I don't have to rebuild my whole config. We can only hope that Insteon can come up with a backup of some type in the future so customers do not loose everything. Even if I could export the device settings would be a plus.

[TBoy]

The C7 fix also worked for me. Thanks to the person that figured this out.

[mike1yis]

C7 fix also worked for me. Thanks !!

[cnorris]

Thanks to whom ever posted the C7 cap fix. My neighbor found a 47 ufd up in the garage stored away. It was not the perfect fit but we made it work and I don't have to rebuild my whole config. We can only hope that Insteon can come up with a backup of some type in the future so customers do not loose everything. Even if I could export the device settings would be a plus.

For what it's worth, I've opted to keep a simple spreadsheet of devices, IDs, schedules, and so on since most electronic things will die at some point. It's a bit of extra work, but much less work than trying to rebuild a configuration from scratch – especially since several modules are installed in difficult to access places.

Count yourself among the many who would love the possibility of exporting a config file. Because of how Insteon devices work, making that functional is a bit trickier than it might seem. Each device that is added to a Hub or added to a scene or linked in any way to another device will store the individual device ID for every device it knows about. If a Hub is swapped out, the new Hub will have a different ID and the individual devices won't know anything about it. A config file doesn't help here, since the Hub doesn't maintain the link tables, the individual devices do. That means updating each device. Ideally, perhaps, users could order a replacement Hub with an identical ID as the failed unit, but that has it's own set of issues.

Glad you got your Hub up and running again!

[pgiralt]

Thank you all for this thread! I also had the diode marked UFM MIC that looked like it might have been burnt, but after finding this thread and finding a spare 47uF capacitor laying around, I figured I'd give it a shot. Lo and behold replacing C7 worked! This saved a ton of time. Thanks!

[MWEST20]

I'll add my story about a year later from the last post. Hub had no power and I did look inside. I saw the surface mount D6 with charring effect. I even measure across it and it seemed "open". I found this forum and replace the 47uF at C7. Working lights!!! Thanks for posting.